That night in Pok

It was a scary night on the River Ravi in Pakistan occupied Kashmir.

On 23rd March Pakistani high commission in New Delhi celebrated their national day. The separatist leaders of Kashmir were also invited. Former teacher of Zakir Hussain College A.R Gilani criticized India over its so-called atrocities in Kashmir. Indian government chose to ignore his comments. Bits one minister Javadeker had attended it on behalf of Indian government.

Kashmir continues to be India's Achilles' heel. Pakistan has made demand for Kashmir's freedom as  its raison d'etre. Though there have free and fair elections in Kashmir and now there is a PDP-BJP state government headed by Mahbooba Mufti Mohammad Saeed but a section of Kashmiris are nursing for its freedom. The while world takes it as a flashpoint because both India and Pakistan have developed nuclear arms. It is a no-win situation for all.

Meanwhile, prime minister Narendra Modi played a gamble and visited Pakistan's ancestral home to break ice. But nothing happened. Indian TV channels were critical of India's Pak policy and anguished why iKashmiri separatists are being allowed to have a free run. Obviously, somebody in Pakistan is testing India's nerves. 23rd March also happened to be Holi and Bhagat Singh's martyr day. All this brought me back memories of visit to PoK  in 1990.

I had gone as a journalist from Times of India's group. My dear friend and Pakistan's press secretary Mubarak Shah had facilitated my visit with references to right connections in Pakistan. I realized a little later that an officer of Pakistan's Intelligence was my escort. He accompanied me to PoK as well. He was behaving like a hardcore diplomat. Making right kind of noises. Drive to Muzaffarpur, capital of PoK was long and uncomfortable, unlike Jammu to Srinagar highway. I didn't notice any signs of development en route. But I wanted to wait till the last mile.

When we reached Muzaffarpur, it was late night. A room in a hotel had been booked. It was on River Ravi. I was alone in that room. I was advaised to keep it bolted and not to open it even if it is knocked. It sounded scare and eerie. The river floing right under my window was making a turbulent sound. I had read about its place in Indian history. But it was stark reality facing me. The fatigue pt me to sleep.

The so-called capital city was no better. There were some scattered shops but no high rise buildings. When I pointed this out to my escort, he returned a sheepish smile. But his next sentence was rather loaded. There is an elected government and administration in Kashmir(I was amused at the stand alone expression Kashmir. Their Kashmir, our Kashmir crossed my mind. I started wondering, what we are fighting for. We have spent a fortune to keep Kashmiris happy. Obviously, Pakistan was not doing it in their Kashmir. It was keeping that portion as a counterpoint.

Finally, we landed at the office of PoK President Sardar Abdul Qayyum-a bearded mullah looking old man in his late 50s. He had been briefed about my visit. He was cordial and hospitable. I started shooting my questions:

Who takes decisions here?

We have elected representatives.

But we never heard of any elections like in J and K.

May be your media doesn't report.

I have heard that Pakistani army controls this region.

They are here for our safety.

Safety from whom?

From India, of course. Indian army is hawkish about PoK. There have been insurgents.

But trained terrorists cross border to enter J and K from your territory.

The border is no long and topographically unfriendly that there can't be any foolproof control.

Does Islamabad control your state?

No it is an independent region. Kashmir doesn't belong to India or Pakistan. We are allowed to live peacefully here, so we are comfortable. But we belive in kashmiriyat which has a long history and culture.

How long will this continue.

Allah knows.